I met Jockus a few years ago when climbing the Rwenzori, leading a Hikemaniak team.
Previously, in 2021, two Rwenzori guides, supported by another Kenyan team, had attempted Batian but only reached the base of Firmin’s Tower.
This time, Jockus arrived in the city when I was already in the mountain, so I arranged for him to join us at Shipton Camp.
He arrived at Shipton and seemed to have developed cold feet. I had to do quite a bit of work that evening to get him back into the right frame of mind and ready for the climb the following morning.
We did some refresher training on rappelling, cleaning gear, gear etiquette and generally sharpening the climbing instinct. We also worked on communication, especially communication when we are out of sight of each other, which happens a lot on Batian.
Jockus comes from a village I love — Nyakaleginja, a village of the living.. smoke rising from every homestead, a meal is getting ready.. a smell synonymous with African existence. The roadside is full of bananas. Smoke rises from every homestead in the morning; children play, and women go and come from the market in the late afternoon. When you live in the city this feels like time travel.
He comes from the Bakonzo people of the Rwenzori, which translates to “the people of the snow.” He knows the mountain.
The climb
The approach in the morning was cold and dry air hit our faces, but I must say it was a very easy morning and the sun was soon out as we started our climb
5:15 am — Departure from Shipton Camp.
6:28 am — Start of the climb from the base.
12.00 pm — Arrival at the summit.
12:36 pm — Start of the descent.
5:34 pm — Back at the base.
6:08 pm — Arrival at Shipton Camp.
We found hot water and all the food we had missed during the day. Chicken stew, chapati, chips and lots of other accompaniments were waiting for us. Jockus was happy to reunite with Rachael, his trailmate. Rachael had gone up to Lenana Point as we attempted Batian. Finally, at the summit of Batian, Jockus had done it.
We were happy to have Jockus climb with us and in the process, make history. He became the first Ugandan to reach the summit of Mount Kenya’s Batian. The 49-year-old father of five children is elated and can’t wait to return home to narrate tales of his Kenyan adventures.
How the dream came about
A team we had prepared with rock-climbing skills for a Rwenzori climb in January climbed the Rwenzori, guided by Jockus.
Though they did not summit because of unfavourable weather, Jockus was an incredible guide to the team. During the climb, he had also shown interest in climbing Batian as they trekked. When the team descended, they called me and asked me if it was possible to put up a climb for Jockus, and it was an emphatic yes.
This August, they made that dream come true.
And I think it is important that each of them is mentioned.
Antony Wakhisi
Wangui Muchigi
Wanjiru Shinga
Esther Wachira
Anne Rita Koki
Grivix Makhamara
Everlyne Mwende
Lucy Mwangi
Viner Motari
Henry Njite
Mark Macharia Ng’aru
We sincerely thank them for making this expedition come true and for helping fulfil a dream.
Sometimes, the mountains give you more than a summit.
This time, they gave Jockus a story to take back home to Nyakaleginja. Inspired by Jockus to climb Batian .. make your dream come true too here
Gitonga wa Wandai
Mount Kenya Climbing Guide
